MacBook Buying Checklist: 10 Things to Check Before You Pay
Save this page before you meet a seller. These 10 checks take under 10 minutes and protect you from every common problem with a used MacBook — Activation Lock, bad battery, dead pixels, broken ports, and more.
Rule #1: Never pay before you've completed this checklist. A legitimate seller will wait. If they won't let you check these things, that's your answer — walk away.
The Full Checklist
01
Activation Lock — verify it's clear
The Mac should boot directly to a desktop or setup screen — not an "Activation Lock" screen asking for an Apple ID. Ask the seller to sign out of their Apple ID (System Settings → Apple ID → Sign Out) in front of you before money changes hands.
✓ Pass: Boots normally, seller signs out without hesitation
✗ Fail: Any iCloud login prompt you can't get past, or seller refuses to sign out
Deep dive: What Is Activation Lock? →
02
Battery health — check the percentage
Go to System Settings → Battery → Battery Health (or Battery → Battery Information on older macOS). You want to see the Maximum Capacity percentage. Aim for 85%+. Below 80% means the battery may need replacement within a year.
✓ Pass: 85% or above for everyday use
✗ Negotiate: 75–84% — ask for a price reduction. Below 75% — factor in a $100–150 battery replacement cost.
Deep dive: How to Check MacBook Battery Health →
03
Verify the model and specs
Click the Apple menu → About This Mac. Confirm: chip (M1 vs Intel), RAM, and storage match what was listed. A seller who listed "M1 8GB 256GB" should show exactly that — not a different year or lower specs.
✓ Pass: Specs match the listing exactly
✗ Fail: Any discrepancy between what was listed and what About This Mac shows
04
Display — check for dead pixels and backlight issues
Open a browser and go to a pure white page (google.com works). Look closely at the screen for dead pixels (tiny black dots that don't change), yellow tinting in corners, or uneven backlight bleeding around the edges. Tilt the screen to different angles.
✓ Pass: Even, white display with no stuck pixels or bleed
✗ Fail: Any dead pixels, significant yellow tint, or heavy backlight bleed at corners
05
Keyboard — test every key
Open TextEdit or Notes and type every key on the keyboard — letters, numbers, function keys, spacebar. Every key should register once per press. On 2016–2019 Intel models, watch specifically for sticky, repeating, or unresponsive keys (butterfly keyboard issue).
✓ Pass: Every key registers cleanly, one press = one character
✗ Fail: Any key that's sticky, doesn't register, or registers twice. Walk away from 2016–2019 models with keyboard issues — repair is expensive.
06
Trackpad — click and gesture test
Click in every corner of the trackpad — top left, top right, bottom left, bottom right, and center. All should click smoothly. Then test a two-finger scroll and pinch-to-zoom in Safari. A swollen battery can cause the trackpad to bulge and lose its click.
✓ Pass: Clicks everywhere, gestures work smoothly
✗ Fail: Any part of the trackpad that doesn't click, or the trackpad visually appears raised/bulging (could indicate swollen battery)
07
Ports — test both USB-C ports
Plug a charger or USB-C cable into each port. Both should work. On M1 MacBook Airs, there are two Thunderbolt ports on the left side. A dead port often means liquid damage to the board — it's expensive to fix and signals broader internal issues.
✓ Pass: Both ports detect a cable / charge the Mac
✗ Fail: Either port doesn't respond — walk away unless the price reflects the repair cost
08
Speakers and microphone — quick audio test
Play a YouTube video to test speakers — audio should be clear from both sides with no crackling. Then open QuickTime → New Audio Recording and check that the microphone level responds to your voice. Crackling speakers often indicate liquid damage.
✓ Pass: Clear stereo audio, mic shows input in QuickTime
✗ Fail: Crackling, buzzing, or audio only from one speaker — liquid damage indicator
09
Camera — test the webcam
Open FaceTime or Photo Booth. The camera should activate with a clear, non-grainy image. The green indicator light should turn on. A blurry, green-tinted, or non-functioning camera is a common liquid damage symptom.
✓ Pass: Clear image, green light on, no green tint
✗ Fail: Camera won't activate, image is green or heavily distorted
10
Physical condition — inspect the chassis
Turn the Mac over and inspect the bottom case, hinge, lid, and all four corners. Light surface scratches are normal. Look for: dents at corners (drop damage), cracks in the aluminum, hinge that doesn't stay at your chosen angle, or any port area damage suggesting liquid entry.
✓ Pass: Light cosmetic wear only — normal for used
✗ Negotiate: Corner dents or lid scratches — adjust price. Walk away: cracks, port damage, or hinge issues.
Full buyer safety guide: Is a Used MacBook Safe to Buy? →
Quick Reference — Paste This List in Your Notes Before You Go
- 01Activation Lock — seller signs out of Apple ID in front of you
- 02Battery health — 85%+ preferred, check in System Settings
- 03About This Mac — specs match listing (chip, RAM, storage)
- 04Display — no dead pixels, no backlight bleed, no yellow tint
- 05Keyboard — every key registers once, no sticking
- 06Trackpad — clicks in all corners, gestures work
- 07Ports — both USB-C ports detect a cable
- 08Audio — clear stereo speakers, mic responds in QuickTime
- 09Camera — clear image, green indicator light on
- 10Chassis — light wear OK, walk away from cracks and corner dents
If a Mac passes all 10 checks, it's a good buy at the right price. If it fails 2 or more, or fails #1 (Activation Lock) or #7 (dead port), walk away — these signal deeper problems that will cost you more to fix than you saved buying it used.
We Run This Checklist On Every Unit We Sell
Every Caldex MacBook is verified on all 10 points before we sell it. Battery health disclosed upfront. Activation Lock cleared. No surprises. Text to see what's available in DFW.
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